When The Sportsman contacted two German ultras to ask whether they were going to Preussen Münster away on Friday night, the reply was unequivocal: “Na klar sind wir da,” - “Of course we’re there.”
Silly question, you might think; the ultras travel everywhere. But it’s not so straight-forward for supporters of third-division FC Hansa Rostock.
Rostock is a city on Germany’s extreme north-eastern coast, to the north of Berlin. Yes, Germany has a coast - and even beaches, which in the summer are popular with holiday-makers from all over the country.
But Rostock is also famous for its football team: FC Hansa.
Founded in their present form in 1965, Hansa were one of the biggest clubs in the former German Democratic Republic (GDR). But they had to wait until the final ever East German “Oberliga” season for their greatest triumph: the league and cup double in 1991, making Hansa the last ever league and cup winners in East Germany.
Hansa are also renowned for their dedicated away following, averaging 1,525 last season – including a league high when 4,000 made the 300km journey to Bremen. Over the whole season, only their eastern German rivals 1.FC Magdeburg averaged slightly more in third division (1,543).
This season, an average of 1,324 fans have accompanied the team on the road – a figure which is made more impressive considering Rostock’s location in one of the most inaccessible regions of Germany.
Because for Hansa fans, there’s no such thing as a short trip. Their nearest away games in Bremen and Magdeburg are still over three hours’ drive away, while their longest away day takes them over 800km south to Aalen, neat Stuttgart.
In the away end
Upon arrival at Münster main station, The Sportsman was initially foiled in his attempt to reach the arranged meeting point. One exit to the station was cordoned off with a temporary wooden wall. Why? One frustrated local had the answer:
“Because of that one thing that nobody gives a s*** about! Football!”
The hundreds of Hansa supporters arriving on the football special from Rostock will have disagreed. Nevertheless, their arrival had brought an entire neighbourhood of a fairly major city to a standstill.
The away end was full: an old concrete terrace separated from the pitch by a wide mud track. Over 1,300 supporters had made the 450km trip from the north-east.
After a few confused phone calls, The Sportsman stumbled through the mud to pick up his ticket through a fence behind the police water cannon. “Meet you at the beer stand, yeah?”
Once through the security check - and beverage in hand - any logistical worries were soon forgotten. But, despite lying fourth in the table, Hansa’s problems on the pitch were just about to start.
“I just can’t get enough!”
After just ten minutes, Martin Kobylanski put Münster ahead with a 25-yard rocket into the top corner. But the strike elicited a muted reaction from the home fans.
Münster’s active support, including the hardcore ultras, are currently staging an atmosphere boycott in protest at plans to out-source the professional football division of their club, which they believe would make their team vulnerable to the negative effects of outside investment.
Ten minutes into the second half, it got worse as Münster added a second.
Two-nil down on a freezing Friday night. But it didn’t dampen spirits in the away end as the travelling fans made their own entertainment. Even a German version of “I just can’t get enough!” started doing the rounds.
“Oh FC Hansa, du bist mein Fußballclub!“
(Oh FC Hansa, you are my football club!”)
“Ich kriege nicht genug! Ich kriege nicht genug!“
(I just can’t get enough! I just can’t get enough!”)
At full time, the defeated Hansa players trudged through the mud to clasp the hands of the ultras on the fence. Meanwhile, a stolen Münster flag burnt on the ground – a minor victory for the travelling support.
“Why have you travelled all this way on a Friday night?” The Sportsman asked one fan. “Because it’s Hansa,” was the obvious response. And Hansa are always there.
