Piazza Santa Croce is one of a number of historically important and beautiful squares located in central Florence. Completed in 1385, the Basilica (church) located at the far end is the burial place for many prominent Florentines from the Renaissance period, such as Michelangelo, Machiavelli and Galileo. Like so many other sites in this city, it attracts worldwide tourism on a huge scale – so much so that the Mayor has had to resort to hosing down its steps to dissuade picnicking visitors from leaving their rubbish – the square and Florence itself housing some of the world’s most prized treasures.
Come mid-June however, all rules are abandoned as Piazza Santa Croce is transformed into an arena when Florence hosts its annual Calcio Storico (historic football) tournament. One of the most brutal sports the world has ever seen, the aim of this barbarous game is to get the ball in the opponent’s goal to score a caccia (goal) by any means necessary. This means that players can use both feet and hands, and allows punching, elbowing, choking and head butting, although no more than one player must attack at any one time.
The scenes that follow are undoubtedly like something you would see in ancient gladiatorial combat, with the Maestro di Campo – who more closely resembles a boxing referee than a football one – holding the unenviable task of re-establishing order in the event of a brawl. Tensions boiled over this weekend when one player brutally attacked the referee. The match was then halted and police in riot gear were called in order to separate the two warring sides.
Described by many as a cross between traditional football and MMA, this sport truly has to be seen to be believed, but in order to fully understand it and why it is so culturally important in the city, it is vital to delve further into its historical roots. The sport – initially named “Giuoco del calcio Fiorentino” – were formally established in 1580 by eminent Count Giovanni de’Bardi, a friend of the influential Medici family in Florence.
Four teams of 27 players were formed, each representing one of the city’s quartieri (districts) as follows: Santa Croce – Azzurri (blue), Santo Spirito – Bianchi (white), Santa Maria Novella – Rossi (red) and San Giovanni – Verdi (green). The players still wear 16th Century costume denoting their allegiance today, and each district is proudly supported by locals whose heritage is firmly rooted in their own quarter.
After interest in the game had waned at the end of the Renaissance period, Benito Mussolini and the Fascist Party revived the sport as part of a nationalist drive in the 1930’s. May 4, 1930 marked the date when Calcio Storico was finally returned to Piazza Santa Croce after the last official match on record was held in January 1739. In between this period, the game was played on the streets, but never held official standing.
The juxtaposition of pageantry and local pride with this bloodthirsty endeavour is something completely alien to most, but to the locals it makes perfect sense. There are those in the city who oppose the violence and it is true that sometimes – like we saw this weekend – tensions do in fact boil over.
Through 1970s and 80s the sport was used as an excuse to resolve tensions in the city, for example when in 1977 a player bit off an opponent’s ear over a personal issue. In 2014 the mayor of Florence Dario Nardella was forced to cancel the final in order to avoid violence spilling over into the streets.
With “four quarters, one purple heart” as the tagline for this summer’s season ticket initiative, Fiorentina have cleverly emphasised the fact the warring factions are united when it comes to the city’s football club. This couldn’t have been better embellished when – present at Sunday’s match between Bianchi and Azzurri – legend Gabriel Batistuta received an emotional standing ovation from the crowd.
Florence may be divided for this annual sport but – just like the football team – it holds a place amongst the locals as a symbol of pride for what is one of the most historic cities in the world. And unlike gladiatorial contests that have long since been abandoned, the brutal fighting only serves to preserve its authenticity.
